In the charming little village of Saint-Julien d'Ance, about ten minutes from Craponne-sur-Arzon, Thibaud Martin, the chef of the Ancelois restaurant, offers refined and gourmet cuisine year-round, prepared with local and seasonal produce. Since taking over the establishment in March 2018, he has had the opportunity to expand his clientele, and since 2024, Valentin has joined him in the kitchen. He now offers a bistro menu during the week and a gourmet menu on weekends.
On weekends, we offer a gourmet menu with appetizers, a starter, a main course, cheese, a dessert, and petits fours. Guests can choose between two starters, two main courses, and two desserts.
What types of menus do you offer at the restaurant today?
Thibaud Martin: We offer a bistro menu on Wednesday, Thursday, and Friday lunchtimes, with a carefully curated menu featuring fresh seasonal produce that changes weekly. On weekends, we offer a gourmet menu with appetizers, a starter, a main course, cheese, a dessert, and petits fours. Guests can choose between two starters, two main courses, and two desserts.
Who are your customers today?
It has expanded since the restaurant opened. There are, of course, locals and a few people from the Puy-en-Velay area, but also many people from outside the department, from the Saint-Étienne and Lyon regions. We have vacationers and retirees. There are also people who come to see us for family meals or meals with friends. We have set up "La table des copains" in front of the bar.
What types of dishes can we taste?
Mushroom dishes, whenever the season permits. Last year, we had morels, porcini mushrooms, gray chanterelles, and sheep's feet. Also potato dishes, as we are located in the canton of Craponne-sur-Arzon. I'm currently working with potatoes as Dauphine potatoes, in butter, in gratin, and also in porcini purée.
Valentin makes his own pâtés croûtes all year round, which we serve as appetizers. And then, I also find the Puy-en-Velay AOP green lentil in my dishes, as well as pork.
A particular recipe?
I often work with salmon that I smoke myself, I love it. I actually use a smoked salmon heart that I cut into thin strips. I serve this with a fromage blanc worked with citrus, to add a little pep. I make a beetroot/fromage blanc coulis to sweeten the recipe. The dish is served with a small samosa with crunchy vegetables cooked in the Wok, which gives it a slightly Asian touch.
Which producers do you work with today?
My parents supply me with bread, organic eggs from Piassac, and vegetables from Didier's Garden in Saint-Georges Lagricol. The pork comes from Torrilhon cured meats, and I use everything we produce locally, like lentils and cheeses. We try to source as much as possible from local producers.
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