Between these atypical monuments and these small medieval streets, discover the city of Le Puy (ponots refers to the inhabitants of Puy-en-Velay)From the upper town of the Middle Ages to the lower town of the Renaissance era, you will be amazed!
Ranked among the Most Beautiful Detours in France, the town of Puy-en-Velay is known for being the starting point of the path to Saint-Jacques-de-CompostelleThe cathedral complex is notably included on the UNESCO World Heritage List under the Routes of Saint-Jacques. In addition, the city is increasingly renowned for its major events such as the Trail of Saint-Jacques by UTMB, Puy of Lights or Nights Festival Saint-Jacques.
1) Martouret Square
Martouret comes from late Latin “Martoretum” and means cemetery. In the popular mind, this name ended up taking on the meaning of “martyrs square"because this place was reserved for public executions.
It was also here that on June 8, 1794, the previous and authentic miraculous statue of the Black Madonna. During the French Revolution, the guillotine was permanently installed on this square from March 30, 1793 until January 1795, 41 executions were carried out.
2) City Hall
He closes the place of the Martouret. Completed in 1766 and the work of the architect Portal, this building of Louis XV style, with its sober facade, was built on the site of theformer consular house and was destroyed several times by violent fires (1653, 1817, 1964).
3) Place du Clauzel
In Languedoc, the term “clauzel” designated a small enclosure. It was a cemetery, intended for the burial of the poor of the Hôtel-Dieu. It was decommissioned in 1654.
On Saturday morning, the flea market takes place there.
4) Courrerie Street
This street was formerly the street of Curriers. At number 6, a dwelling Renaissance opens onto the street through a triple arcade with projecting keystones decorated with grotesques; interior courtyard and turret from 1571. At number 8, you will find a 16th century facade.
5) Place du Plot
This is a pleonasm because the name is taken from the late Latin “planum”, which means place and became plo in Languedoc. In 1548, the consuls had a pillory erected on this square where drunkards were exposed to the mockery of passers-by. The fountain, called the “Bidoire”, is the oldest in the city ; built in 1246, the dolphins and eagles that decorate it must date from the XNUMXth century. From the XNUMXth century to the beginning of the XNUMXth century, the eastern side of the square was occupied by the Saint-Pierre du Monastier church.
Le Saturday morning, it's the market square farm products. In particular, they sell a tasty local cheese covered with a multitude of micro-organisms (artisons) which ensure its quality.
The place is also the starting point of the path to Saint-Jacques-de-Compostelle (Via Podiensis, GR65) and some Regordane way by rue Saint-Gilles for pilgrims going to Saint-Gilles du Gard.
6) Pannessac Street
This is the old street of grain trade. She has retained many lodgings from the 16th century to the XNUMXth century. The XNUMXth century left at number XNUMX a corbelled turret which overlooks rue Philibert.
7) Rue Chènebouterie
At number 9 you will find the birthplace of the Marshal Fayolle dating from 1592. Marshal Fayolle (1852-1928), general at the end of the First World War, commanded theFrench Army of Italy in 1917 and victoriously participated on the French front in the decisive offensive of 1918.
In this street, the route of the fifteen-century-old pilgrimage of the Virgin of Puy-en-Velay begins on the Mount Anis. Today again, after the gathering of the faithful and pilgrims on the Place du Martouret, it is the starting point of the moving Torchlight procession on August 14.
8) Chamarlenc Street
At number 18 you will find the headquarters of theformer brotherhood of Cornards (note the two mascarons). In the 17th century e century, the Brotherhood of Cornards, a bacchic brotherhood, was created in Puy-en-Velay celebrating good living and good eating. The Brotherhood set off once a year in a burlesque procession to Saint-Germain-Laprade, singing its Chanson des Cornards.
We can still see on the pediment the masks of two cuckolds, and the inscriptions above each of these two cuckolds: " see the cuckold laugh " and " that the horns look good on a forehead like mine ».
9) Rue Raphaël
This street was once inhabited by families bourgeois and by notable from the city.
At number 38, the Bobbin Lace Teaching Center invites you, after watching a video, to visit its collection of old and contemporary lace in the setting of a late 18th century house.
At number 56, you will find a facade with Corinthian columns which support mascarons on the first floor representing the sun and Moon.
10) Place of Tables
The fountain in the Place des Tables, known as the “chorister" was dedicated in the 1803th century, to the memory of a young chorister who sang carols in the streets of this district of Le Puy during the Christmas holidays. Until XNUMX, the fountain stood in the Farges Street at number 11 (former blacksmiths and farriers’ quarter).
11) Table Street
The Rue des Tables once hosted goldsmiths and traders of religious objects, which they presented to pilgrims on tables wooden on each side of the street. The street takes its name from this. Its ascent is continuous with the 134 steps which provide access to the nave of the Cathedral.
12) The Hotel Dieu
Linked to the pilgrimage and the Marian sanctuary, the Hôtel-Dieu was founded in 12th century century to welcome the ill the most deprived. An exemplary rehabilitation, entrusted to the architect Jean-Michel Wilmotte allows you to rediscover this major place in the city's history. A space for promoting local heritage, exhibition halls, a conference center and a café all contribute to enhancing the upper town and making it more attractive.
The Hôtel Dieu and the cathedral complex of Puy-en-Velay are listed on the UNESCO world heritage list under the Paths of Saint-Jacques-of Compostela.
A monumental work called “The Heart of the Hôtel-Dieu» from the artist Jean Michel Othoniel is installed in the garden.
13) The Cathedral
From its origins to the present day, the pilgrimage of Our Lady of Puy contributed to the development and prosperity of the city. roman style, the Cathedral presents various influences due to contributions from the Orient and Moorish Spain.
Under the large porch you will find “the cedar doors” from the 12th century and theinterior staircase (open in summer). The choir rests on the rock. In order to accommodate the ever-increasing number of pilgrims, four additional bays were boldly built in the 17th and XNUMXth centuries on the void to make up for a difference in height of XNUMX meters.
14) The Sainte-Alexis digital chapel
By Becdelièvre street, we arrive directly at the digital chapel where the “Land of Giants” show, a series of interactive and fun scenographies for traveling through Haute-Loire.
The building also houses theHaute-Loire Department Hotel, a privileged space for organizing events, congresses, seminars. An exhibition gallery is open all year round, with free access, and offers the discovery of works by local artists.
We continue to the old 14 bis Porte Gouteyron (1295) through which we discover a superb view of the rock and the Saint-Michel d'Aiguilhe chapel.
15) The Chapel of the Penitents
Built in 1584, this chapel, still open for worship, contains beautiful paintings and sculptures. Remarkable ceiling coffered painting (Renaissance) whose central motif is theAssumption of the Virgin (visit every day in July and August from 14 p.m. to 18 p.m.).
During the Revolution, the penitents' chapel was saved from desecration by the butchers' corporation, which celebrates a memorial mass there every year.
16) The Cloister
Classified as a historic monument and built at the same time as the Cathedral (11th-12th century), the cloister of Puy-en-Velay is one of the most beautiful in EuropeIn the Salle des Etats du Velay, you will discover an exceptional collection of embroideries and liturgical ornaments and in the chapter house the fresco of the crucifixion (early 13th century).
The historian and academic Émile Male wrote that the arcades of the Velay cloister could be compared to those of the Mosque of Cordoba, their keystones of different colors alternating harmoniously in the same way.
Note: The portal and the lions of the Baptistery of Saint John are of Lombard inspiration.
17) The Place du For
By Manecanterie Street, we join the Place du For (center of the primitive city-forum) to admire the view of the city.
On the right, you will find the façade of the bishopric and the porch of the For (12th century) with its openwork arches, its capitals and the oldest stones of the Marian sanctuary. The latter recalls, on the tympanum and the lintel of the so-called “papal” door, the Roman architect of the first building, Scutaire, who would become bishop of Puy-en-Velay and would be canonized.
Under the porch, a lintel comes from theancient pagan temple and bears the name of a divinity whose cult was celebrated on Mount Anis, that of an emperor deified by the Romans: Adidon and Augustus.
18) The Camino
THESaint-Vidal mansion, a 14th century building, is listed in the inventory of monuments with vaulted rooms and painted decorations. It serves as a setting for the Camino which in one hour, thanks to a multi-sensory scenography, reveals to you the spirit and the different stages of the path to Saint-Jacques-de-CompostelleThe visitor is immersed in the adventure of Compostela and interactively travels through the stages of Le Puy-en-Velay Saint Jacques-of Compostela.
Coming back Saint-Georges street, we then pass in front of the chapel of Major Seminary. The Seminary of Le Puy and that of Saint-Sulpice in Paris, were founded by Abbot Jean-Jacques Olier (1608-1657), Abbot of Pébrac. The venerable mother Agnes Galland, born in Le Puy (1602-1634), a Dominican mystic, was the spiritual inspiration for these creations. Her shrine is in Langeac at the Sainte-Catherine de Sienne convent. She was beatified in Rome on November 20, 1994 by Pope John Paul II.
19) Cardinal de Polignac Street
We arrive opposite the chapel of the Anne-Marie Martel school. Anne-Marie Martel (1644-1673), born in Le Puy, founded in 1668 the Congregation of the “Ladies of Instruction” better known under the name of “Béates” who assisted the sick, animated in Velay the “assemblies"from villages where they taught the catechism and lace.
Gathered in “cover” (from the Latin cum vicinis: with the neighbors), the lace makers of Haute-Loire numbered up to 130 in the middle of the 000th century.
The street Cardinal of Polignac presents, on the even numbered side, a succession ofold dwellings who are among the richest in the upper town. At number 8, former Polignac hotel from 1611 to the Revolution, XNUMXth century turret overlooking an interior courtyard.
Cardinal Melchior de Polignac (1661 – 1741) was Archbishop of Auch, French ambassador to Poland, and entrusted with missions to Rome and Holland. In 1713, he negotiated the Treaty of Utrecht, which recognized Philip V's (grandson of Louis XIV) right to occupy the throne of Spain.
20) Rue Rochetaillade
Particularly at number 7 you will find the oldest bourgeois residence in the city with its Romanesque facades (13th century).
Bouillon Street : From the name of the work founded in Le Puy by Saint-Jean-François-Régis to help needy families by bringing them meals.
21) Place de la Platrière
This place brings together several facts: the location of the writer's birthplace Jules Valles and the old one Chapel of the Visitation, built from 1652 to 1655, where the Companions of Jehu were judged at the end of the Revolution. These Companions pursued the Jacobins from January to June 1795 in the Lyon region. Out of 114 accused, 111 acquittals and 3 death sentences were pronounced in March 1799. But the sentence was not carried out, prisoners who escaped thanks to local accomplices.
Jules Vallès (1832-1885) was a member of the Paris commune in 1871. He escapes execution Communards in front of the Wall of the Communards on May 27 and took refuge in London. He returned to Paris after the amnesty in 1883, republished his newspaper “Le cri du peuple” and completed his autobiographical novel, the trilogy “Jacques Vingtras”, “L'enfant, le bachelier, l'insurgé”.
22) The Pierre Cardinal Center
These remarkably restored buildings now house the house of associations, a cultural and congress center as well as a youth hostel.
After having been in the 18th century the Convent of the Sisters of Saint Mary, a barrack in 1792, a museum From 1820 to 1851, the building bore the name of Mouton-Duvernet and had a school assignment from 1920 to 1976. General Mouton-Duvernet, born in Le Puy in 1770, was shot in Lyon in 1816 for having rallied to Emperor Napoleon I on his return from the island of Elba.
Poet and troubadour, Pierre Cardinal (1180-1278) was one of the most vigorous talents in Occitan literature. He was famous for the critical “sirventes” that he expressed during an almost century-old existence.
23) The Monastery of Saint Clare
This convent was founded in 1432 by Saint Colette of Corbie (1381-1447) reformer of the order of nuns of Saint-François (Poor Clares) and by Clauda de Roussillon (Viscountess of Polignac).
The high walls of the monastery dominate the picturesque alleys of this district, called “Pouzarot” (diminutive of “rock well” or “wheel well” depending on the source).
It's'one of the oldest districts of the city of Puy-en-VelayRemarkably rehabilitated, it has managed to retain its characteristic character.
24) The College Church
This former chapel of the Jesuit college was built in 1605 by Martellange, architect of the Jesuits. This is a beautiful example ofbaroque-inspired architecture. It is the first “Jesuit” style church in France.You will find beautiful altarpieces in the choir, the first four side chapels and the baptistery.
Throughout history, local artists have contributed to its beautification:
- the sculptor Pierre Vaneau (1653-1694) for the decoration of the pulpit;
- the Jesuit brother André Besqueut for the statue of St Jean-François Régis (in 1928);
- the sculptor Philippe Kaeppelin for the modern altar (in 1984);
- the painter Guy François (1578-1650) for the paintings of the choir and the first two side chapels.
25) The Statue of Our Lady of France
On September 8, 1855, the feast of the Nativity of the Virgin, General Pélissier was victorious during the Crimean War at the siege of Sevastopol. As a sign of gratitude, he advised Bishop Mgr de Morlhon to request from theEmperor Napoleon III some of the cannons taken from the enemy to build the statue that the diocese of Le Puy wishes to dedicate to Notre-Dame de France.
Sculpted by Jean Marie Bonnassieux, the statue made of cast iron from the 213 guns of Sevastopol was inaugurated on September 12, 1860 in front of 120 pilgrims. It measures 000 meters (16 with the pedestal) for a total weight of 22,70 tons (835 tons for the statue, 110 for the stone pedestal and 680 for its iron covering).
26) The Rock and the Saint-Michel Chapel
Built on a old volcanic chimney, the Saint Michel d'Aiguilhe chapel culminates at 82 meters from above. There is something magical, between vertigo and serenity once you reach the summit. A technical and human feat, this sanctuary was consecrated in the 10th century by Godescalc then bishop of Puy and first French pilgrim around Saint-Jacques-de-Compostelle.
It's more than 1000 years of history which houses the Romanesque chapel with its intimate and mysterious appearance. Faced with the crowds of pilgrims, the primitive square-plan oratory is enlarged by an ambulatory nave which hugs the summit of the Rock.
Lulled by the colours of the stained glass windows, the chapel's murals are revealed and offered to visitors. They bear witness to the special care the chapel has received in light of the various restoration programmes of recent years. Once at the top, you will not be indifferent to the charm of the landscape that stretches as far as the eye can see over the Velay.
27) The Crozatier Museum
The Crozatier Museum, located in the heart of the magnificent Henri Vinay garden, was founded in 1820 and entirely renovated in 2018. It contains 1001 curiosities: mummies, carriage, stuffed animals…and the famous Vercingetorix laying down his arms at Caesar's feet.
It is a museum composed of 4 categorys: archaeology, Velay crafts, fine arts and sciences.
28) The statue of General Lafayette
Gilbert du Motier, Marquis of Lafayette (1757-1834) was born in Chavaniac castle 40 km from Puy-en-Velay. It was a French officer and politician, famous because of his commitment to the ranks of the American insurgent army, then to the liberal and reformist part of the French aristocracy and finally to the liberal opposition to the July Monarchy regime.
The statue was hidden and safe by local resistance fighters during the Second World War.
29) The Pannessac Tower
It's'old royal city gate (1850th century) which was partly demolished in XNUMX to widen the street entrance. The location of the destroyed tower is marked by paving on the sidewalk.
Emperor Charlemagne and 13 Kings of France came on pilgrimage to Le Puy. Last royal visit: that of Francis who came to Le Puy in 1533 to fulfill the vow he had made in Madrid while he was a prisoner of Charles Quint after the defeat at Pavia (1525).
30) Saint-Laurent Church
Enlarged in the 14th century, the building, one of the rare witnesses of the Gothic era in the Velay region, saw its vault collapse in 1525. Then its bell tower was knocked down by the Huguenots in 1562 and the vault collapsed again in 1644.
In 1750, the external buttresses were built. Then, in 1966, cables were stretched between the pillars to prevent them from spreading apart. The church is finally closed to the public August 24, 1971; the consolidation, then the restoration will be long since it will not be open again to worship only for the celebration of Christmas Mass 1988.
Besides the striking beauty of the architecture, one can admire the 19th century stained glass windows century, skillfully restored and recently created (in the chapel of the Blessed Sacrament and the rose window of the façade), the magnificent woodwork (chairs, stalls, etc.), paintings by Guy François, the most remarkable of which is “The Incredulity of Saint Thomas” and a paving of very original symbolism.
Attention ! The church is currently closed to the public due to renovations.
