Baptiste Blanc, who describes himself as an ethical pastry chef, has come a long way since opening his shop in March 2021 in Chomelix. For four years now, he's been experimenting with sustainable pastries, all of whose ingredients are sourced in his workshop located a stone's throw from the city center. Last year, he made a name for himself by winning first prize in the sustainable pastry competition in Lyon with his Caldeira savarin, whose shape is inspired by Mézenc cheese.
Have you been experimenting with sustainable baking for four years now?
Baptiste Blanc: In fact, for me, it's about sourcing the raw materials I use for my pastries as best as possible. This requires a good understanding of them. I source locally and through short supply chains. I know the farmers from whom I source 95% of them. There's also the notion of ultra-fresh, which is complicated when it comes to fruit. Very often, they're picked before they're ripe for logistical and storage reasons. The advantage of being in contact with producers offers the possibility of having fruit at its peak, which makes a big difference in terms of the finished product.
Do you define yourself as an ethical pastry chef?
Baptiste Blanc: Ethicurean is a blend of ethics and epicurean. In fact, being an ethicurean pastry chef means making good pastries, with lots of flavor. There's the notion of respect for the environment in this approach, but also people who work with the same spirit and the same values in terms of agriculture. Today, for example, many almond trees have been replanted in Provence, and that's a good thing compared to what we do in Spain or California. And then, we mustn't forget the notion of pleasure because it's the basis of pastry. I have rather well-balanced recipes with well-measured ingredients.
What are the house specialties today?
Baptiste Blanc: There's the Paris-Brest based on a very traditional recipe. My recipe is adapted to today's tastes with a little less fat and sugar. I make my own praline, which is super important to stand out. I also make brioches. I work them with a Panettone sourdough, a traditional recipe I inherited from an Italian master pastry chef who attended the international bakery school in the Alpes de Haute-Provence. The brioche dough requires 48 hours of fermentation.
You had the opportunity to shine with your award-winning Caldeira savarin. What did that mean for you?
Baptiste Blanc: Indeed, I received first prize in the first edition of the sustainable pastry competition organized last year in Lyon and chaired by Pierre Hermé, a pastry chef world-renowned for his macarons. I found it interesting to see the approaches of each candidate in terms of sustainable pastry. In terms of preparing for the competition, I was fortunate to be accompanied by Jacques Marcon, from Maison Marcon in Saint-Bonnet-Le-Froid. Our discussions were very enriching. I started from scratch and the recipe I presented to the jury has evolved enormously. The competition is also an opening to other professions. We created an enameled terracotta mold with a potter. The presentation trays for the recipe were made by a wood turner.
Have you had the opportunity to give a nod to the territory?
Baptiste Blanc: Yes, a big nod because the shape of my savarin was inspired by Mont Mézenc. And also by the cistre, which is an emblematic wild plant found at high altitudes.
Are you working in your own workshop today?
Baptiste Blance: Yes. There was a lot of space in the old premises located in the center of Chomelix. There was an accommodation section and a tea room. My project evolved, and I had more and more requests at the Craponne-sur-Arzon market. It's actually my main point of sale today. I also do some shipping since I send citrus fruits to a Parisian baker. For all of this, it was more practical for me to have my own premises.
How to get your creations?
Baptiste Blanc: AThe Craponne-sur-Arzon market is where I am mainly located. My biscuit products can also be found in grocery stores in the Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes region, particularly in Lyon, Saint-Etienne, Tence, and Vorey-sur-Arzon.
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